Crimp is the natural wave formation found in the Huacaya fleece. The move to nylon woolpacks does not Learn about different wool characteristics — from fiber length and diameter to crimp | Cross River Homes We love wool. This waviness is termed as ‘crimp’. Merino fiber is know for its high frequency of crimp. Textile School incorporates knowledge associated to textiles right from fibers to its end usage including textile processes, trade-offs, know-how and textile standards. But, if we change the crimp frequency of the flock, what would we be doing to other characteristics at the same time? Flame resistant (wool usually extinguishes itself when the source of flame is removed), Weaker than cotton or linen, especially when wet, Fibres range from one to fourteen inches long, Most valued for its textured appearance and warmth, Springs back into shape after being crushed, An excellent insulator as woollens (80% air), Absorbs moisture which is held inside the fibre (the wool will still feel dry even on a humid day), Quality of wool varies with the breed of sheep, Does not attract dirt or static electricity. This property enables wool to act as a buffer against sudden environmental changes, for example, excessive perspiration during exercise or changes in climatic conditions such as going outside from an air-conditioned room. Australia, Eastern Europe, New Zealand, and China are major wool producers. The site is intended for all spectrum of users to learn and share the textile knowledge from a single platform. This article is based on a report that he presented in the CSIRO Fine Wool Newsletter. Some wools are better suited for rugs and others for fine lace. Your email address will not be published. The highest quality wool comes from the sides, shoulders, and back. Importance of evaluation of PPE for medical personnel to combat…, Comparison of Cleaning Treatments for Conservation and Restoration…, How to Choose a Sewing Machine: Top Tips for a Newbie Learner, Fusing Quality Control in Garment Manufacturing, Types of textile fibers – list of textile fibers by its…, Knitted fabrics and types – list of knitted fabrics, This website uses cookies to improve your experience. In this replicated experiment, we investigated the impact of cashmere in blends with superfine wools on the mechanical properties of single jersey knitted fabrics. Sheep with fleeces that were broader crimping than they thought desirable for any flock were culled and so were sheep that were too highly crimped. If a ram from a medium wool bloodline is used – where, of course, the average crimp frequency is very different- there will be greater changes over this period. Breeds found in Texas and California produce fibres 2.5 inches long. Progeny of sires (and dams) with the highest clean fleece weights tend to have the lowest crimp frequency. processing consequences of different selection strategies. necessarily prevent contamination; however, as the chemical structure of nylon is similar to wool, it absorbs wool dyes and this makes any contamination less obvious. Finer wools such as merino are very crimpy, with tight waves, while coarser breeds such as Lincoln have thicker individual fibers and a looser crimp. Then, they need a haircut. The surface is a series of overlapping scales of protein, pointing toward the tip. The process is called sheering. Merino wool has 30 crimps per inch while coarse wool has one or two. They are fiber diameter, crimp, yield, color, and fiber staple length/strength. Crossbreed: A sheep or the wool from a sheep resulting from the breeding of two difference breeds. This information allows us to relate the average crimp frequency of a processing batch to the subsequent performance of that batch through to top stage. Is there significant genetic control of crimp frequency? Relaxation shrinkage is an irreversible change in fabric dimensions (expansion or shrinkage) that occurs only once when a fabric is first immersed in water (without agitation) and then allowed to dry. The wool fiber properties particularly the fineness and crimps of Menz, Dorper and 50% Dorper sheep of different parts and age categories are significantly different. The inner core does absorb moisture – so much so that wool can absorb almost double its own weight in water and still feel reasonably dry. Wool scale. There are two major sources of shrinkage in wool-containing fabrics, which may be encountered during laundering: relaxation and felting shrinkage. In the past, the task of spinning usually was the job of unmarried females – they became spinsters. The carded fibres are gently scraped into strands called roving. The absorbed moisture also holds down static electricity. A fine wool like Merino may have up to 40 crimps per centimetre (100 crimps per inch), while coarser wool like karakul may have less than one (one or two crimps per inch). A ram, or male sheep, can 20 pounds of wool. 12—A COMPARATIVE STUDY OF THE WOOL CHARACTERISTICS OF TWO MERINO BREEDS UNDER SEMI-ARID CONDITIONS. It was one of the first fibers to be spun into yarn and woven into the fabric. In the Sahara Desert, Bedouins wear thin wool clothing to help them keep cool in the scorching heat. This water is incorporated in the internal structure of the fibre and, therefore, is hardly noticed by the wearer. Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions. Wool grows permanently crimped and this natural crimp gives the fiber bulk and allows it to absorb noise. Sheering is done by hand, but the manufacturing of wool fabric is done by machine. However, when we look at the genetic control, things are different. Polyester is the most important fibre used in blending with wool. wool characteristics between mobs within a flock which will require those mobs to be kept separate, however where mobs are of similar breeding and husbandry conditions the Woolclasser may choose to combine those mobs to create larger lots. This difference is utilised in carbonising wool to remove excessive cellulosic impurities, such as burr and vegetable matter. Apparel Perhaps the biggest issue of all, these days, and certainly an important one, is the relationship between crimp frequency and processing performance. In other words, is crimp related to factors that determine processing yields and the economics of processed products. Relaxation shrinkage is caused by the release of temporarily set strains imposed on the fabric in dry finishing and can be minimised by suitable finishing routes. While wool is grown to keep an animal insulated, it is not the same as hair or fur. 0.3), so selection for crimp will be reasonably effective if we decide that we want to change the crimp frequency of the flock. Contrary to popular belief, not all wool is rough and itchy. Crimp — How important is it in modern wool? The wool fibers have three-dimensional crimps, 25 waves per 10 cm in fine fiber, and 4 waves per 10 cm for coarse fibers. Evaluation of New Zealand low and high crimp Merino wools. As Figure 1a clearly shows, when crimp frequency increases, hauteur decreases. Aside from premium next-to-skin apparel, wool can be used in industrial applications such as thermal and acoustic insulation or in pads to soak up oil spills. The crimp of wool, or the frequency of waves in a wool staple, has been a vital part of the selection of Merino rams and ewes from the early days. The arrangement of the cells causes the ‘crimp’ (wave) in the wool fibre and traps air (providing insulation), which produces wool fabrics that keep us warm during winter. Wool always absorbs moisture from the atmosphere of greater humidity and releases it to the drier environment as it creates a balance in moisture conditions. Sharafeldin M. A. Proceedings of the ninth wool textile research conference, vol. The roving is spun into yarn that is then woven into cloth. Wool products labelling Act permits the word “wool” to be used for fibres from sheep, Angora or Cashmere goats, camel, alpaca, llama, and vicuna. If we ranked a group of animals within a fine wool flock from the highest fleece weight to the lowest, we would not find any corresponding change (up or down) in crimp frequency. Blends of different synthetic fibres with wool for suiting materials are increasingly important. The first thing to note is that these differences are surprisingly small. Figure 1b The relationship between crimp frequency and staple length showing that the lower crimped wools are associated with longer staples. This crimp may be introduced mechanically by passing the filament between gearlike rolls. Regain is the ratio of the mass of water to dry wool expressed as a percentage. Cool Wool uses what’s known as an “open weave,” which, as the astute gentleman may have guessed, means it allows body heat to escape, while letting outside air in. Wool Characteristics: aa043097. The characteristics which a wool classer would examine are: Breed of the sheep: Shedding breeds will increase the risk of medulated and/or pigmented fibres. The fiber diameter measures the width of the fiber. Australian Wool Education Trust When we looked at wools of similar length differing only in crimp frequency we found no association between crimp frequency and hauteur. This is the key to wool’s strength. Once done by hand, these days a carding machine passes the wool through a series of rollers covered with wire bristles. What is the genetic relationship between crimp frequency and other traits that breeders might consider important in their flocks or in the flocks of clients? Wool today is prized for its beauty and durability. An associated question is whether a breeder can maintain a particular crimp frequency and yet make acceptable changes to other characteristics of economic (and processing) importance. The differences in the chemical structure of the various fibres mean that different classes of dyestuffs are required to cover the range of fibre types. Fibre crimp affects wool’s properties The crimp in wool fibres makes it soft and springy to touch. 1966 57(3). Synthetic fiber manufacturers have attempted to simulate these natural characteristics through mechanical processing with satisfactory results. It therefore comes as a bit of a shock to find objective evidence that shows the association between crimp frequency and mean fibre diameter is essentially zero. The Fine Wool Project of the Wool CRC’s Program 1 is throwing light on these questions by giving us information about a number of issues related to crimp frequency: First, let’s look at variability. But not all wool is equal – even when it comes from the same animal. II, pp. Another term also used by the textile industry, predominately for cotton, is ‘moisture content’. If there is no variation we can’t change the flock average anyway. Hence, these wool fibers shall be classified and graded based on their breeds to use for different applications, and also it could help to explore more on wool fiber production. Wool, along with cotton and to a lesser extent nylon, is a fibre that absorbs moisture from the surrounding air to reach an equilibrium, which depends on the relative humidity of the environment. A ewe, or female sheep, can produce up to 15 pounds of wool. We already know that crimp frequency was used in the past as a visual indicator for mean fibre diameter. Learn how your comment data is processed. Wool absorbs perspiration; thus it keeps a layer of dry air next to the skin which, in turn, helps to hold in body heat. A sheering specialist can sheer 200 sheep in a day. remove this layer, if required, is by chemical treatment. Wool garments do not feel damp or clammy. AcceptRead More, Wool fiber – Basics, Characteristics, & Properties, Characteristics of Wool Fibers and Products, Summary of Characteristics of Wool Fibers. It was one of the first fibres to be spun into yarn and woven into a fabric. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. At ambient humidity, wool will contain 10 to 15% by weight of water and up to 35% water at high relative humidity, which is more than most other fibres. It also adds bulk and traps a large volume of air between the fibres, giving it good insulation properties. Will an animal’s performance be passed on strongly to the progeny? About wool and its properties. The association between fleece weight and crimp frequency is slightly more complex. The relationship between crimp frequency and length of fibre in the processed top (hauteur) showing that the lower crimped wools produce tops with longer hauteur. What is the relationship between crimp frequency of a fleece and its processing potential? This conclusion applies only to fine wool flocks. What characteristics determine what is wool 's value? 12 886 519 613, © 2017 Australian Wool Education Trust. One of the many raw wool attributes measured on the individual fleeces that formed the processing batches was crimp frequency. The amount of water absorbed by wool is usually referred to as ‘regain’. The amount of crimp corresponds to the fineness of the wool fibers. Fleece is a ball of wool taken from a single animal in a shearing. Objective measurements include diameter (micron), length, strength, position of break, vegetable matter and colour. Wool is known for its ”memory,” which is the ability of fiber processed into textiles to bounce back to its original shape. Distribution of Grade or Wool Fiber Diameter. Alpaca is often criticized for having inadequate memory and, as a result, is often blended with 6% to 20% wool to increase memory. Fiber widths. In warm, moist conditions such as in soil, wool biodegrades rapidly through the action of fungi and bacteria to essential elements (i.e. Wool is resistant to acid, whereas cotton and cellulose are severely damaged if exposed to acid. Wool is possibly the oldest fiber known to humans. Crimp: The natural waviness of the wool fiber; it varies with the diameter of the fiber. Since moisture does not remain on the surface, woollen fabrics tend to feel dry and comfortable even in damp weather. Woolcheque uses a combination of objective and subjective wool measurements and characteristics to price wool. Crimps: Wool fibre is more or less wavy and has twisted. This characteristic makes wool a versatile all-season fabric. The length varies from place to place on the animal, but it mostly varies amongst sheep breeds. That is, longer staples have a lower crimp frequency. AUSTRALIA Finishing By Deborah Robson & Carol Ekarius What would happen to diameter, for example? This UK breed is classified as mountain and hill. Gary Robinson (right) and Phil Henry from CSIRO Geelong examine a top made from wool from the Fine Wool Project. Wool classing is done by a wool classer. Wool has many useful properties besides insulation. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. The American woollen industry began in the Massachusetts settlements in 1630, where each household was required by law to produce wool cloth. The most important use of wool is for apparel coats, jackets, suits, dresses, skirts, slacks made from woven fabrics of varying weights and knitted fabrics’. The lowest quality comes from the lower legs. Wool fiber is the natural hair grown on sheep and is composed of protein substance called as keratin. We were particularly interested in the hauteur, or mean fibre length in the top because it is has a big influence on the prices paid for wool tops. This is carried out by examining the characteristics of the wool in its raw state. Gallagher J. R. Textile Research Journal. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Wool is ideal for cool weather garments such as sweaters. Characteristics of Wool Fibers. … Textile School - a knowledge-base repository of textile articles. Does it still have a place in classifying wool? In the thin and semi-fine wool distinguish three basic forms of twists: normal, flat and high. 7. Find out about different sheep breeds and their characteristics in our latest blog by World of Wool. p.883. In the home furnishing area, the major use of wool is in carpets and rugs where wool is used more, cover to the carpets and warm in the rugs. Many readers have asked for a smaller book that they could carry with them … Wool Also Keeps You Cool. Wool is graded for fineness and length. All lots sold through the auction system by AWEX are assigned an appraised style, from inferior (7) to choice (1). Fiber Dr Ian Purvis, manager of Program 1 has been studying crimp as part of the Fine Wool Project and reflects on its changing importance in modern wool science. Studies have been conducted over several decades on crimp frequency and processing efficiency by the South African Wool Research Institute and by CSIRO Division of Wool Technology in Australia. This is because the surface of the fibre has a very thin, waxy, lipid coating chemically bonded to the surface that cannot be easily removed. Wool from other breeds and other animals may be as long as 15 inches. This means that selection within a flock or bloodline for lower mean fibre diameter alone will not change crimp frequency. machine washing). On the face of it, it looks as though lower crimp wools are clearly better than highly crimped wools. AWEX-ID covers subjective characteristics. Wool’s surface repels water. This result in fabrics that are more appropriate in warmer conditions. So they attempted to create uniformity in crimp frequency. Animals whose crimp varied across their body were also usually dispatched to the butcher. Polypropylene and polyethylene do not absorb the dyes used to colour wool so any wool pack contamination from these fibres in the final product will appear obvious. Next, the wool is carded – that means brushing the wool to straighten the fibres. The crimp in the fibre allows wool fabrics to hold air and thereby retain heat. However, we have done the calculations and despite concerns about changing crimp frequency in fine wool flocks, we conclude that selection that is focused on the major traits of economic importance within a flock fleece weight and diameterwill result in only very small changes over a period of, say, ten years. Scouring, washing or processing will not remove this layer. Jute Fiber – the natural cellulose bast fibers from plants or…. II. Australian Merino wool is 3-5 inches long. p.T107. Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair/fur: it is crimped and elastic. Wool is treated with a solution of sulfuric acid and is then baked to destroy the impurities with only minimal damage to the wool. Wool is a protein fibre that has scales and crimp that make it easier to spin into yarn because the fibres interlock with each other rather than slide loosely against each other (as in the case of cotton which is made of cellulose). Crimp promotes the protection of the fleece from ingress of mechanical impurities and atmospheric precipitation. This absorbency also gives wool its natural resistance to wrinkles. Figure 1a. Finer fibres with more crimp such as Merino create fabrics that drape better than coarser fibres. In general, these results show that up to the topmaking stage lower crimped wools produce slightly longer fibres and have lower processing losses than wools of higher crimp frequency. Box 240 This microscopic view shows us why wool is special. First in the west — New students graduate in Wool Science, Phil Hynd is new head of Animal Science in Adelaide. In the wool industry, a good well-crimped fleece is said to The results of these unique trials will let us predict with confidence the. This is measured by the heritability, and crimp frequency is moderately heritable (approx. The crimp is characteristic of all types of wool fibers, except for the covering hair. Wool is composed of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen and this is the only animal fiber, which contains sulfur in addition. Wool classing is the production of uniform, predictable, low-risk lines of wool, carried out by examining the characteristics of the wool in its raw state and classing (grading) it accordingly. Cheviot . But be careful: When wool is wet the fibers are weaker. There are many different breeds of sheep, each with their own characteristics. This results in the entanglement of the fibres as they move under mechanical action in water (as occurs in That’s why we wrote The Fleece & Fiber Sourcebook. Wool is possibly the oldest fibre known to humans. A.B.N. Wool is a protein fibre that comes from a variety of animals. In wool, the individual fibers have a characteristic crimp or waviness that ranges from tight to loose, depending on the sheep breed. And because of the inner moisture, wool is naturally flame resistant. The fleece is a bright white with good crimp and soft handle and is very even. Through its natural crimp, it creates miniscule air pockets, which help regulate temperature. Do we scrap it entirely or is it important in the processing of wools of any particular “type”? Yarn, Costumes: During Indus Valley Civilization, Textile Fabric Types – different types of fabrics and…, Types of Woven Fabrics – universally used fabric names, Linen Fiber and Linen Fabrics from the Flax Plants, An exclusive information portal on textiles. Nitrogen and Sulphur) for the growth of organisms as part of natural carbon and nutrient cycles. Wool’s Special Characteristics. It … Finer the wool the more will be the crimps in it. In wool the finer (smaller) the diameter the higher the quality of wool. Terms & Conditions, CRC for Premium Quality Wool: 1993 – 2000 An Evaluation, A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. The Crimp/Diameter Relationship in an Australian Merino Flock. Scales of protein substance called as keratin is it the staple length that gives us result! Zealand, and they have scale, which are one one-millionths wool characteristics crimp meter... Give wool it ’ s Special characteristics more will be presenting further data the... 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